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The jumping-off point to some of Croatia’s most stunning islands, Split still manages to hold its own.

While Hvar and Vis are only a boat ride away, there’s also plenty here on the mainland. Modern yet traditional, Croatia’s second-largest city has both Roman monuments (the Diocletian’s Palace) and energetic bars and restaurants. And, unlike the otherworldly Dubrovnik, whose pristine buildings can look like an open-air museum, Split is comfortably lived in: there’s a flurry of life going on amid the turquoise seas and ancient white walls. Wander between the beautiful buildings, then grab a beer and head to Riva Harbour for the sunset and people watching.